Monday, May 21, 2012

Farwell, Dominican Republic

From Friday, May 18 ...

Well, it's on.  Today is the last day for us in Paradise and its going to be one big hot mess (literally - no really, it's 42 degrees here and my house is upside down).  We are finishing packing up this morning while the kids are in school and then we have a going away party at the beach this afternoon.  I can't believe that it's over.  But that's life right?  We've said good bye to so many things this week that it's taking a toll on everyone.  it's not your normal "see you later" or "until next time".

It really is a solid "goodbye", the kind that means that we will most likely never see these lovely people and places again in our lives.  Colin and I figure that we may return someday, but things here change so quickly with people coming and going and with all of the land development, that if we do someday come back it will not be the same.  I feel bad for the kids and all of the friends that they made at school and within our circle of friends.  I'm not sure that they understand.  And now that we have a bit of the "adventure bug" we may want to try somewhere else next time the bank account allows it.  We've learned so much about life here.  Our lives, other people lives.  The way we live and the way it impacts other people.  We've seen both sides of having things and not having things and the joys and sorrows that both sides can bring.  I hope that we bring home and instill in our lives many of the things that we have learned here. We have learned to value time with the ones we love.  We have found so much joy in being together this year, relying on each other for our entertainment and support.  we've also had to deal with extreme sorrow this year with the sudden passing of Colin's step-father in April - only 3 days after returning home from a two month visit to us.  It has been difficult to grieve from afar but comforting to know that there is so much family support for Colin's mom back home.  She did however, return to us for the last three weeks to help us out - I like to think that we've helped each other out.  I'm sure that there is not a better balm for sorrow than gazing at the ocean on a deserted beach and then coming home to the hugs of your grandchildren. 

We've learned here that for the most part, things are simple.  Love, Laugh, Live.  I'm sure I've seen this on a scrapbook page somewhere, but I honestly get what it means now.  We see it every day in the Dominican people around us and hopefully try to mirror it within ourselves.  Really, what more is there?

We are so looking forward to coming home and reconnecting with our friends and families.  I'd like to think that we have changed this year and maybe you'll notice the changes and maybe you won't.  The challenge for us will be to instill those changes into our daily lives and not revert back to the busy, crazy way that we lived before this adventure.

Thanks for following along, and for your patience.  Your patience for when you see us staring dreamily into space.  You know what we're thinking about.

The Geissler's

Friday, February 24, 2012

Guest Post

My Mom is visiting and sent an email back to our family.  I asked if I could post it here for another perspective on this little adventure in the sun.

Today is Friday Feb 17. Yesterday I thought it would be a great idea to pick up some fresh fish at the fish market.  I walked down the beach, went into the shack they sell fresh fish from.  It has two freezers, a scale and a desk with the required calculator.  Everywhere you go to buy from the Dominicans they have hand held calculators and as you ask prices they show you the amount on the calculator.  Works well for those of us who don’t understand Spanish.  Anyway, back to the fish market.  I called Colin and asked about prices and then off I went.  I chose two lobsters and had the tail cut in half.  Then I chose (or rather they suggested) a filet of Dorado (very popular and inexpensive). The last time I bought fish I bought 2 whole fish and they showed me the gills (nice and red and still a little slimy) that’s the way you know that the fish is fresh.  I should have thought about that little lesson.  Anyway, I brought my fish back to the condo, washed them and put them in bags and in the refrigerator.  Cliff sounded the first alarm; He said that fish smells too much.  I wasn’t crazy about the smell, but you know fish.  Of we went to the kids place and Carmen and I went to the sailing club to pick up Cohen and then to our place to get the fish.  We both agreed that the Dorado was pretty stinky, so Carmen said let’s ask the fishermen that were just coming up the beach with one very large Dorado.  We opened the bag a million flies appeared out of nowhere and the fisherwoman said something in Spanish that made me realize that she wouldn’t eat that fish.  The lesson is, never buy a fish filet.  If you don’t want the whole fish choose a nice fresh fish and get them to give you a filet from that one, if they won’t do that, don’t buy the fish.  The lobster was fresh, but not as good as Atlantic lobster.  The meat is not as firm and sweet.

I haven’t driven the quad since we got here so I drove yesterday.  Nice and easy, the road is bumpy the drivers are passing on all sides, and there are no rear view mirrors, so I took it easy.  When we got to the Condo, Chase had a coin and I had to pick heads or tails.  I chose heads and won, but found there was no prize.  Then it was Carmen’s turn, she pick correctly also, I asked Chase what her prize was, he told me that she got to drive the quad home because I drove to slow. 5 year olds looking to race with the rest of the people, what is this world coming to?

Today was grocery day. The two downtown streets make a one way loop.  We experienced a traffic jam, Hummers, SUV’s trucks, quads motorcycles, bumper to bumper the fume of gasoline was terrible.  We finally discovered the cause, a broken water main on a side street with a river of water rushing down the street.

Colin had the truck washed today for our trip next week to Puerto Plata.  They spray the whole underbody of vehicles here with oil to prevent rust, and they clean the interior with something that makes the cloth seats have a plastic film on them.  Colin said a friend of his didn’t think oiling the underbody was necessary; he ended up losing a wheel on the highway. 

Gasoline here is expensive I don’t know how much per gallon, because they don’t have it on the pumps, but they do have a meter that tells how much you owe.  The gas cost $ 743 DR I gave him $ 750 ($19) and he said God Bless you for the 7 DR Tip (20 cents CDN) Pretty cheap way to get blessed.

On Saturday Colin, Chase and I went snorkeling. 

On Sunday we went to Playas de Valle near Samana, short trip, long ride.  The high-way from Las Terranas to Samana is well paved but twists and turns, so KK had to throw-up a number of times.  At Samana we picked up gravol so the rest of the ride was uneventful in terms of KK.  We went to a waterfall where Colin, Chase and Cohen climbed to the top and dove in the water a few times, then off to the beach.  The cafe there had just got some fresh river shrimp, they were huge, as well as another type of fish, lunch was shrimp, fish, chicken, rice and beans, French fries and fried plantains.  Excellent food. 

The ocean at that beach has a very dangerous rip-tide so no swimming.  We walked around the beach to the end of the beach and beginning of the mountain.  Along the way we came across a very large sail boat.  I must have been 60 ft. long.  A fellow from Puerto Rica had sailing into the bay and his boat had been crashed into the rocks.  It was split in half, and the mast was broken into 3 pieces.  I wonder if there was more to the story.

Right now I am walking around with $8470 DR in my wallet (about $200 CND).  That is about how much the cleaning lady here at the condo gets paid for 2 months work.  I spent $750 at the grocery store today $350 for a bottle of wine, the rest was for a loaf of bread, dozen eggs, very small bottle of dishwashing detergent, 8 ounces of bleach, pack of gum and small slice of emmental cheese ($459 per pound). Of course we shop at the tourist market (maybe cheaper at the DR market, but it smells so bad there you can’t stay long enough to buy anything).

Some stores here are closed from 1 to 3 in the afternoon.  Full time employees work a 44 hour week.  They do not pay income tax unless they earn over $20,000 per month, but they do pay a small percentage for health insurance and pension.  They have a labor law here that requires an employer to pay 1 months’ salary to every full time worker on December 20 (Christmas Pay). Children can’t work until 16 but they are really busy at the supermarket, offering to protect your car, wash it (heaven only know what they will use to wash it with).  Colin and Carmen’s friend calls this child labour, I call them entrepreneurs. (Note from Colin:  I would call them entrepreneurs, too if I wasn't pretty sure there was a kind of "fagin" who takes most of what the children earn).

Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Frogs!


A couple weeks ago I was on a skype call in the evening with some colleagues in Canada. They asked me what the chirping noise was in the background. I said "Frogs." They didn't believe me. All day and late into the night our Dominican neighbors make lots of noise -- music, motorcycles, pleas to vote for one presidential candidate. At night the insects, amphibians and animals start up, too. There is a constant (and quite loud) background of frogs, crickets and chirping lizards. This will often be interrupted by barking dogs or some feral cats who are staking territory.

Carmen finds the noise disturbing. When he visited, her dad was frustrated because it is so loud that when trying to sleep it is difficult to block out -- the frustrating part is just when you think there is a rhythm it changes (try falling asleep to that!) I find the wildlife sounds (versus the wild life sounds of the locals) pleasant, but then in the summertime I also like waking up at 4:30 am to the bird sounds, then rolling over and going back to sleep.

However, the one sound I don't think anyone appreciates is the rooster who lives across the street -- mind you I haven't heard him in a long while. Perhaps he stopped crowing to become a lovely stew.

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Friday, February 10, 2012

Big Bad Lionfish


On the left is a fish. The Lionfish is an invasive species in the carribean. It originates in Southeast Asia and in 2000, was spotted in this area. It outcompetes other native species and has venomous barbs on its back.

On the right is my new speargun. I bought it today and took it out this afternoon. The Lionfish was no match for the tri-tipped barbed spear.

Tomorrow, we have Lionfish for dinner.

P.S. Congratulations to Joachim for catching a lobster during the same outing.

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Friday, November 11, 2011

Day to Day Living

We are finally settled in and just finished with our first visitor this week.  My mother-in-law was here for the last two weeks which was a lot of fun.  It was nice to show off all of the things that we have been trying to explain to people.  And having another set of eyes on the kids didn't hurt either.

We have no babysitters here so we really enjoy when the kids are off at school.  We could have a ton of babysitters if we wanted, but of course they all speak Spanish, which probably wouldn't work well when Cadence is hiding behind the chair and refusing to go to bed....

I talked to my music teaching partner at my school yesterday about x-mas concert preparations and it made me realize that I do miss it (a little bit).  As crazy as this time of the year is, it is one of my favorites.  But I get over the nostalgia quickly by telling myself that I will have plenty more concerts to look forward to in the future.  The boys talk about missing tobaganning and we tell them that they will have the rest of their lives to tobaggan so enjoy boogie boarding while you can!

The kids have settled into school and are having a good time.  Chase and school have a love/hate relationship unfortunately.  He hates being dropped off (severe seperation axiety which is full on panic), but loves school once he gets settled in.   I can't imagine trying to get him on the kinder bus if we were in Canada this year.  He never would have gone.  Cadence is in playschool four mornings a week and is really having fun there too.  I spend my mornings puttering around town running errands on my quad (yes, that is what they drive here, I love it.  And yes, we fit all five of us on it).  We do also have an suv that we use for longer trips or if we have a lot to carry.

Our typical day looks like this.  We get up at about 7 am (Colin is usually up by 5 or 6).  We have a typical Canadian breakfast of toast and cereal.  School starts at 8 and it takes about 15 minutes to get there.  The boys do not catch a bus to school, we drive the quad.  There is a bus and it is crazy.  Things are so wild here that you just have to shake your head at some things.  The bus is a rickety rusted 9 passenger van that they squish about 20 kids into.  It's like a clown car with them all sitting on each others laps and of course there are no seatbelts ... and the principal rides in the front seat home as well:)  A lot of kids go to school and back home on the back of hired motorbike taxis or in the font seat of their parent's SUVs.

Here is the first minute or so of our morning commute ...


At 9, Cadence has school.  A couple days a week Colin and I also have Spanish lessons.  If we aren't studying then I am usually taking it easy by the pool or out running errands.  I pick Cadence up at noon and we head back to the house.  The boys finish school at 1:30.  We usually have lunch at about 2 pm.  After homework the kids usually go in the pool for an hour or so.  Our goal is to get to the beach 2 or 3 afternoons each week plus weekends which often depends on Colin's meeting schedules but rarely on the weather -- even when it is overcast, it is still really nice.

It starts to get dark about 6 pm about when we usually have supper.  Then there are dishes, showers, a little TV and bed time stories.  It is pitch black by 6:30 and we are usually ready to turn in about 8:30 to read, catch-up on email and maybe watch some TV.  Some nights we will douse ourselves in DEET and go sit out on the terrace.

I can't believe that there is only six months left of our journey here.  Colin and I are taking Spanish lessons and have really improved the last few months.  However Colin just told our handy man who was fixing our broken doorknob yesterday that "I am a doorknob", instead of "I buy a doorknob".  Our handyman is so patient with us, he just smiles and nods.    As are so many people as we practice our Spanish on them.

More adventures are in store with the holidays coming up and more visitors from home.

Monday, November 7, 2011

Qualities of life

Talking about quality of life is tricky because the differences between our home in Canada and here in the Dominican Republic can be measured on different scales. 

Climate plays a huge role.  A few days ago I got my vehicle 'oiled'.  Frequently you need to get the underside of your vehicle cleaned and a high pressure coating of oil applied.  The closer you live to the sea, the more often you need to get this done.  I have been told that not doing this may result in things like wheels breaking off while driving. 

Anyone who has lived in a hot, humid climate knows that you periodically need to remove anything made of fabric or leather from closets, chests or boxes and let them air out in the sunshine.  We have learned how quickly mould forms on things like shoes (leather in particular) and even our nylon luggage.  I can't imagine having to haul all the junk out of my basement to make sure it isn't getting mouldy.  Which is probably why even if you had the money, you wouldn't accumulate a lot of stuff here.  You also don't need that box of winter hats and mitts to store for 3 months (or is it the box of summer shorts and t-shirts stored for 9 months?).

Buildings have to be different, too.  In the Northern climates we build air-tight structures that need specific fresh air systems.  Here there is a 1 inch gap above and below every outside door.  Our windows have screens, but no glass.  If really bad weather is coming (e.g. Hurricane) you need to invest in some plywood if you want something "closed".  We regularly find frogs inside the house in the mornings -- sometimes big frogs.  I guess they come in through the gaps in the doors, but I can't see how. 

There are 'airtight' houses and buildings with closing glass windows but then you need air-conditioning to, primarily, dehumidify the rooms and second, to cool them. 

A/C is expensive because electricity is expensive.  Our house doesn't have A/C and we pay about $200 a month for the fridge, lights, pool pump (no heater - doesn't need it) and ceiling fans.  Propane tanks fuel the water heater and stove/oven.  The house next to us has A/C.  Last month the power bills for our complex were delivered to us by mistake.  The neighbors house which was rented for maybe 7 days out of the month had an $850 power bill -- most of that was the A/C.

We don't run the pool pump all day -- too much power.

There are other key differences too -- like taxes.  From what I understand there are no property taxes.  There are import duties (particularly on luxury items like the 32" LCD TV I brought as luggage which I paid about 80% tax on -- but it was still cheaper than buying locally).  There are "fees" like the $150 to change a vehicle title.  Every tourist pays $10 to get into the country and another $20 to get out, too.

But property taxes and the things that they buy is non-existent.  So things like roads may exist, but decent roads are hard to come by.  We have a road in front of our place.  It is made of dirt.  Occasionally there might be some gravel.  Continuously there are ruts and holes.  There is only enough room for one vehicle at a time which often means having to back up to the main street or pull into a little drive-way mid way down the block when there is head-on traffic.

Since getting here there has been incredible progress on road construction.  There is a brand new highway that  connects the airport and the town.  When we arrived it took an hour up bumpy-rutted mountain roads to get here.  Now, those bumpy roads are mostly fixed taking 45 minutes -- OR the new highway takes 15 and it is an amazing drive along the coast.  Part of this highway was completed in the past 3 weeks.

There were days where we would drive to the beach  ...
- on dirt roads that were being tilled up to return an hour later to a packed and graded surface.
- on newly graded dirt/gravel to return an hour later on new asphalt. 

Instead of signs saying "Department of Highways Project -- Your tax dollars at work" instead the signs say "Minister of Tourism".  Yup, no taxes so only the things tourists use get any attention.  However in this case the toll on that new road is $23 round trip -- which is more than double what many people here earn in a day.

One thing that is the same -- dedicated, caring teachers.  We have found really good teachers at the kids schools (albeit  a private school).  People would be wrong to think that teachers who move here from Europe are only trying to collect a paycheck before high tide.  For example, Chase's teacher does surf in the afternoons but it is obvious from how his classroom is structured and what he does with the kids that he knows what he is doing (and he does it well). 

Of course there are all kinds of other differences -- like you can't leave the bread bag  open on the counter or it will be infiltrated by tiny little ants (which I personally don't have a problem eating …) or the young chicken that somehow got over our 8ft walls onto our terrace ...

Then there are times like the other night when Carmen and I were having supper at a good german restaurant (on the patio because there are no 'inside' tables).  She was remarking on how the smoke from the burning garbage looked so nice, like fog, in the hills with the fading sunlight passing through it.  Riding our quad on our way back home through the pitch black streets, feeling the wind whipping through our hair we passed by the ocean, the water crashing against the beach, before turning down our street.